Sunday 18 August 2019

7 days in Swaziland with R70

Two years back, I set out on a mission with a friend to try and explore as much of Swaziland as possible in 7 days with only R70, or R10 a day which is less than one US Dollar per day. WTF were we thinking?

Just take a look at the map so you can follow the journey with me as I write it:


It started on a Monday morning while everyone was rushing off to work, myself and Zakkie Odendaal were catching a lift to the Border Gate closest to Mbabane. We had one night planed out which was the first night. We would be staying at Legends Backpackers, kindly organized by our good friend and owner of Swazi Adventures. 

Although our means of transport worked out pretty well, we had by no means organized it. Besides our lack of form, holding our thumb to the sky directing the gestures at pretty much any vehicle we could find, the friendly drivers of Swaziland seemed more than willing to pick us up. The first time you catch a lift hitch hiking your short life flashes through your mind. Will my mom miss me, will my family find my body and have I lived a good life? The second time you are a little more comfortable and by the tenth or eleventh time the driver is probably a bit more nervous about picking you up than you are to be picked up. From all the places we had travelled we could have probably spoken a hole in most drivers ears by then. 

But lets rewind. We got to the border and hitched our first ride into the capital. From the lifts we caught on the first day to the back packers, I was most impressed with the young Swazi's  men ambition to make money, do business and change the world. Quite embarrassing actually as I was now for a week, choosing to go into poverty to see life from a different perspective. It was very difficult for them to understand how I would choose something like this. 

We stayed one night in Mbabane and then hitched a ride South through Manzini and then towards Big  Bend where we found a friend of a friend (thats how it goes when you are meeting so many people catching lifts) who offered us a place to stay with him and his wife. They stayed next to a game reserve where Tal (the husband) was a manager on a private reserve. It was a lovely little place, peaceful and full of hospitality. We even got to experience a Sugar Cane Fire Harvest, this was spectacular. Watching the fire lit from all sides of the field and then seeing the flames roar into action creating a thermal spiral sucking air into its core and feeding the beast was simply breathtaking. 

The next day we were in search of a road North to where we heard about a place where we could sit on top of a mountain and have our one foot in Swaziland, or other leg in Mozambique and our back in South Africa. Everywhere we looked online couldn't tell us if this place existed, even locals thought we were crazy and had never heard of it. So we went in search of it ourselves, which is something we hardly do anymore in this online internet driven world. We hitched possibly 4 rides before eventually heading off the main road, tracking our gps up the closest mountain we could see that hinted at these border points. We climbed and carved new tracks up the rocky hills and tall grass until we eventually got to the top...and there it was. We were now looking into all three of these countries. Something I will never forget. 

Back home at Tal's place we sat around a fire having dinner while sharing stories of a truly amazing day. Then, we were off the next day in search of the Northern farm lands, waterfalls and luxury resorts. Of course we couldn't really visit any of these with our R10 a day. Budget check so far, we had spent hardly anything over the first three days and had R60 still left, the help and support of strangers was seeing us through 

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